Thunevin-Calvet Cotes du Roussillon Villages Les Dentilles 2009

Jeb Dunnuck

Even more impressive, the 2009 Cotes du Roussillon Villages Hugo is rock star stuff. Made from 50% Grenache, 20% Carignan, 20% Syrah and 10% Mourvedre that spent 18 months in a combination of concrete and barrel, it delivers deep, rich and layered aromas and flavors of creme de cassis, raspberry, chocolate and toasted bread to go with a full-bodied, mouth-filling profile on the palate. While it's a big, textured effort, it has sound underlying structure, ripe tannin, and serious length. It's gorgeous and should evolve gracefully for over a decade.